Travel writing

It's pretty fitting that I spent my first weeks here, writing furiously, feverishly at a place called La Fragua (the forge).

Looking back on it, I wrote like a fuse had been lit, like pages were burning behind me. I had no thought of editing, did no second-guessing or fiddling, just amassed raw material. I piled all my files into folders and never lifted the lid. I was a little afraid it was a seething pit of sun-stroked mumbo jumbo. I kept shoving poems in, eyes closed.

I arrived in Granada set to begin editing, but was soon distracted by the city, its tapas bars, its cheap wine and my new colleagues. So, I didn't rush back to the manuscript, just poked around in it once in a while. Tested it the way you gingerly toe onto ice to see if it'll hold. It felt pretty solid, but at the same time, I knew there was work to do.

I've spent my five lovely days at Can Serrat editing and assembling and immersing myself in the project as a manuscript. And it feels good to see it coming together as a tangible thing. But it's funny re-encountering the poems, even after just a few weeks under wraps. With some I can remember very specifically where in the garden I sat as I wrote. Others are completely foreign, like finding someone else's work among my own. "Where did that come from?"

It's what's kind of great about writing in a new place. You get to be a foreigner even to yourself. And it's fun to explore a place you thought you knew so well.

Work: the space time continuum

I wouldn't exactly call my current situation a holiday. But since I've vacated my home and my job for three months, I guess that does make it a vacation. I've worked every day, to some degree, even though that work has ranged from moments of vague thinking about my manuscript to hours upon hours of butt-in-chair, pen-in-notebook/fingers-on-keyboard writing.

It's a very different kind of work than my regular, for-money gig. I get to decide what I do, when. (Except for the days when the project bosses me around.) I can go for a walk when I get antsy or drink a glass of wine at my desk. My days fly. And, the very best part: I almost never have to set an alarm. (Then again, I do work evenings and weekends.)

In all of those ways, it does seem very much like a holiday. (Not to mention the gorgeous backdrops!)

But I've been thinking of it simply as time and space to write. Days and days of time; gorgeous spaces. 

The real holiday begins in a few days when J. joins me in Barcelona for four weeks of adventure. (Not that I feel the need for a holiday. This is the sweetest work life imaginable!) I'll still be scratching in my notebook during that time, but the project that brought me here will sleep for a month until I'm home.

In the mean time, I am: editing, assembling, bits-and-bites writing and general fuss-budgeting on the first draft of the MS. Plus, suddenly, Spain poems are niggling.

So much work to do! So few days left!

Voice over

A couple of months after I started running, I decided to sign up for a race. A little 5k? No. A leisurely, sensible 10k? No. A half marathon. (Ten years later, this is still as far as I've run. I plateaued very early in my running career.)

When I decide to step out of my comfort zone, I tend not to tiptoe.

Which is why I find myself feeling a bit in-over-my-head on this project. I've never before written poems from any other perspective than my own. So, why not build a manuscript based on not one, but three, other voices -- especially when there is very little information available about these folks?

(That's then-little Edouard on the right. His father (Gaspard) and mother (Florestine) are -- at least so far -- also present in the manuscript.)


I've never written about anything more historical than my own childhood. So, why not wind back 130-some years to places I've only briefly visited?

And I've never written about subjects I don't know intimately. So, why not take on a world of cowboys, parenthood, freak shows and death?

Because all the crazy, far-fetched ideas I've had, the ones that have scared me most, seemed ridiculous and impossible, have consistently been the most full-filling experiences, the ones that have made me most proud.

Changing time/comfort zones

Today, during one of our manic and frequent gmail chats, J. pointed out how my current writing adventure parallels Edouard's own fish-out-of-water experience.

He was a confirmed country mouse, thrust into the hustle and bustle of cities, travel and crowds. Sure, he would have been used to being stared at, but Willow Bunch wasn't home to nearly as many pairs of eyes as Winnipeg, or Montreal or St. Louis, where he ended up. Plus, he was making his living being looked at.

Here, though my friendly "¡Hola!" (defying my well-practiced downtown Winnipeg detachment) is usually returned with a smile or a greeting, I'm well aware of being a foreigner in a close-knit town. The kids, especially, are on to me, pinching each other until one yells a mocking "hell-LO" at me.

I'm also on metaphorically foreign ground, writing for the first time in voices that aren't my own, of a history I don't know except from reading, and a landscape I've only visited once. It helps me feel more credible in telling his story -- during this writing I am keenly aware of what it is not to belong.

However, I'm reasonably sure my stranger-in-a-strange-land experience will end better than Edouard's.

(This despite the fact that I let a bird in the house last week. You know what looks a LOT bigger inside than out in the wild? A swallow, that's what.)

Unplugging away

Sure, it's a challenge being in a country and not knowing the language. I can pick out the odd word here and there (thanks to my rudimentary French) and, thankfully, grocery shopping is pretty easy since most packaging has pictures of the contents. (If there were No Name brand here, I'd be sunk. And starving.) Unfortunately, the way I say salmon, must sound like jamon. I was pretty disappointed to find out I'd ordered a ham sandwich in Seville. Two ham sandwiches, actually, but that was a different issue.

So, in a lot of ways it's quite isolating. (Everyone in the house speaks English, though, so that's great for me.) I had been thinking that, compared to Canada, there's a real lack of media here but then I realized, it's just that it's all over my head. No radio, no TV -- not that I could understand them anyway. There's a guy who drives up and down every street with a loudspeaker making announcements. The first time I heard it I was hoping it wasn't some sort of emergency warning system, but since no one seemed to pay any attention to it, I ignored it. When I asked later I found out that people hire him to go around announcing when someone has died and when the mass will be. (Or if there is a sale on fruit. He will announce anything you like for 30 euros.) Apparently, back in the day, this service was performed on foot, opening every front door and yelling the announcement inside. Hmmm.

But what it means for me is that I'm not really distracted by the outside world so much. Especially since, after a month, I'm getting used to the views. (Still swoon over every sheep, though.) And, unless I seek it out, I really don't know what's going on in the world. Yes, I look at the Free Press website. But I always, always regret it. (How about something less than gruesome on the home page, for a change?) And yes, I can't stay away from Facebook and gmail chat.

But living in this state of haze is, I think, helping the writing. Most days it feels like the world is just me, my notebook and a some birds in the garden. No to do list. Nothing I should be doing instead (or even can be, really). No office hours to work around. It's a pretty sweet kind of fog.